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Trays of San Andreas cheese — an unpasteurized cheese from raw sheep's milk — made by Liam and Cindy Callahan, a mother and son team, at Bellwether Farm in Sonoma County, Calif.

Against the common gouda

The government regulates how food is produced. MIT anthropologist Heather Paxson studies the rebellious cheese-makers who reluctantly adhere to those rules.

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